What is it about?

Regular wave break almost at the same position and with the same wave height. Meanwhile in a wave group, the wave breaks in the variant positions and with variant wave heights. These phenomena cause the breaking point to be more scattered in a wave group rather than in regular waves. Return flow due to the breaking of wave groups appears more significant and is extended to the full depth in the surf zone rather than in regular waves. Swash oscillations of the wave group in the surf zone appear irregular. Meanwhile in regular waves, swash oscillations are almost constant.

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Why is it important?

Wave groups in the surf zone indicates that the groupiness affects the breaking point and breaking index of individual waves in the group. The breaking index shows a complicated pattern that is influenced by several mechanisms.

Perspectives

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH), which has the advantage of particles moving with flow carrying their scalar property such as mass, density, velocity, pressure, etc., which can be changed over time. SPH can also compute the trajectories of particle fluids. SPH is a good numerical model to investigate wave group effects at breaking and after breaking by comparing individual waves in a group with equivalent regular waves. Swash oscillations and return flow due to breaking waves are compared as well.

Dr.Eng Ni Nyoman NP Pujainiki
Udayana University

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This page is a summary of: Numerical Simulation of Breaking Waves in a Wave Group by SPH, Applied Mechanics and Materials, July 2015, Trans Tech Publications,
DOI: 10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.776.151.
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