What is it about?
With a slow but steady approach, polyurethane based materials, including microcapsules, have found increasing demand and applications in several avenues of dermato-cosmetics. In the current study, we focus on therapeutics, wearable and personal care cosmetics, drug delivery and/or healthcare biomaterials. We collate and analyze only recent trends, which has accelerated manifold in the last 5 to 7 years, attributing to their superior configurational characteristics and functional traits. We note that despite the high necessity, mechanical characterization of polyurethane based materials, including microcapsules have not been subjected to adequate and rigorous investigations. For mechanical properties, we focus on rheological behaviors under varying degrees of deformations. This is a significant lacuna, since several industrial applications of these novel classes of materials are directly influenced by their rheological properties. Consequently, we present an extensive, futuristic roadmap towards advanced rheological characterizations, and correlate and identify major challenges depending on scale up, method optimization and end applications. We also advocate for a gradual, sustainable progression using environmentally friendly raw materials, the development of consumer-oriented solicitations, and a vastly improved understanding of microcapsule mechanical behaviour by adopting advanced rheological characterization techniques.
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Why is it important?
Polyurethane microcapsules are important in skincare applications due to their combination of mechanical robustness, elasticity, and formulation compatibility. Their tunable shell chemistry allows them to withstand shear during manufacturing and storage while enabling controlled release of actives during application. Polyurethane shells are compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients and can encapsulate both hydrophilic and lipophilic actives. They provide effective protection against oxygen, moisture, and light, improving the stability of sensitive ingredients. Additionally, polyurethane microcapsules meet modern safety and regulatory requirements, supporting scalable and reliable skincare formulations.
Perspectives
Polyurethane microcapsules offer several distinct and complementary value propositions in skincare applications. From a formulation engineering perspective, they provide a mechanically resilient delivery system capable of surviving high-shear manufacturing processes while maintaining controlled release under consumer use, enabling consistent product performance across the product lifecycle. From a materials design perspective, the segmented polyurethane architecture allows precise tuning of shell flexibility, permeability, and chemical polarity. This enables encapsulation of diverse actives, including fragrances, vitamins, antioxidants, and oils, while minimizing premature diffusion or degradation within complex skincare matrices. From a stability and protection perspective, polyurethane shells act as effective barriers against oxygen, moisture, and light, significantly enhancing the shelf life of sensitive actives such as retinoids and vitamin C derivatives. This protection supports higher active loadings without compromising formulation stability. From a sensory and consumer-experience perspective, polyurethane microcapsules enable on-demand, mechanically triggered release during rubbing or spreading, enhancing sensorial impact and perceived efficacy without altering bulk rheology. From a regulatory and sustainability perspective, polyurethane microcapsules can be designed using formaldehyde-free chemistries and scalable processes, aligning with evolving safety standards and facilitating commercial adoption in modern skincare products.
Dr. Sharadwata Pan
Friedrich-Alexander-Universitat Erlangen-Nurnberg
Read the Original
This page is a summary of: Functional trends and rheological evaluation of polyurethane microcapsules in dermato-cosmetic applications, Transport Phenomena, January 2026, De Gruyter,
DOI: 10.1515/tp-2026-0006.
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