What is it about?

Ocean waves appear as disturbances of water surface. At first sight, it seems that the motion is vertical. In fact, however, water particles follow open orbits that results in the mass transport of water along the direction of propagating waves. The study reveals the nature of the small drift of water due to waves in wave flumes and discusses its characteristics,

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Why is it important?

The results are important for scientists and engineers carrying out physical model tests in laboratory scale as well as oceanographers deling with transport of various substances in ocean waters.


Experimental study of mass transport under regular waves confirms previous theoretical findings. This knowledge may be used to improve ocean circulation models.

Maciej Paprota
Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences

Read the Original

This page is a summary of: Experimental Study on Spatial Variation of Mass Transport Induced by Surface Waves Generated in a Finite-Depth Laboratory Flume, Journal of Physical Oceanography, November 2020, American Meteorological Society,
DOI: 10.1175/jpo-d-20-0092.1.
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