Food, race and national identity in twentieth-century Mexico

What is it about?

This work explores ideas of race, class and gender in the middle of the twentieth century by looking at mole as a symbol of mestizaje. It analyzes the narratives around mole to reveal the tensions within national identity. In the twentieth century, mole de guajolote (turkey mole) was described as the outcome of indigenous and Spanish culture. Defining which culture played a major role in the creation of mole determined its status and opened a discussion about what aspects of the past would be part of Mexican identity.

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Why is it important?

This article is important because it explores ideas of race, class and gender from the perspective of food, particularly mole. It goes beyond the narrative behind mole's creation and explore this meal as an icon of national identity.