What is it about?

A perfume is a complex cocktail of many chemical ingredients. Figuring out if a batch is mixed correctly or predicting the properties of a new blend is a major challenge. We've developed a new way to analyze these complex mixtures using an ultrafast laser technique called Femtosecond Thermal Lens Spectroscopy (FTLS). This method essentially measures how a liquid heats up and bends light when zapped by a laser pulse, creating a unique signal. Previously, interpreting these complex signals required complicated theoretical models that often failed. We introduced a much simpler and more robust metric called the Femtosecond Thermal Lens Integrated Magnitude (FTL-IM). Instead of complex fitting, we just measure the total area under the signal curve. We discovered that this single FTL-IM number for a whole perfume is simply the sum of the FTL-IM values of its individual ingredients. This simple predictability makes it a powerful new tool.

Featured Image

Why is it important?

This method offers a significant advantage for the fragrance industry. Traditional analysis relies on expensive, time-consuming lab work or subjective human smell panels. Our FTL-IM method provides a fast, objective, and quantitative alternative. For quality control, a manufacturer can quickly measure a batch's FTL-IM "fingerprint" to see if it matches the standard, ensuring consistency. For formulation, designers can use it to understand how different ingredients contribute to a blend's physical properties and identify "powerhouse" components that dominate the mixture's character. This work establishes a direct link between a fragrance's chemical composition and a physical property that can be measured in seconds, streamlining development and ensuring product quality.

Perspectives

This work is the culmination of a seven-year experimental campaign, meticulously collecting data across different laser setups. My initial approach was to use traditional methods, and I spent a great deal of time learning and applying complex curve-fitting models to our results. However, I found these models were often fragile and struggled to account for real-world effects like heat convection. The breakthrough came from stepping back from the complexity. Our goal was to find a simple, robust number to describe a very complex physical phenomenon, without getting bogged down in theoretical models that don't capture real-world effects like heat convection in liquids beyond ideal conditions. The key insight was that by integrating the entire signal—peaks, valleys, and all—we could create a metric that was inherently stable and represented the total energy response of the mixture.

Rohit Goswami
University of Iceland

Read the Original

This page is a summary of: Compositional Analysis of Fragrance Accords Using Femtosecond Thermal Lens Spectroscopy, Chemistry - An Asian Journal, June 2025, Wiley,
DOI: 10.1002/asia.202500521.
You can read the full text:

Read

Contributors

The following have contributed to this page